Peterhead

After a pleasant afternoon in Wick we decided the weather was good enough to head for Whitehills the following day.

We slipped at around 09.00 and hoisted sail outside the harbour. The wind was as usual on the nose, having now gone South East having spent two months blowing from the North. We motor sailed for a couple of hours as there was not a lot of wind. The wind picked up to around 13 knots so we were then able to sail on a tight fetch for 35 miles. It was a bit lumpy as we approached Whitehills when I had to fix fenders and take sails down. The entrance is pretty narrow as you will see from the pictures (one taken by the harbour master as we came in). There are rocks on the West side of the channel so we had to keep tight to the wall. Once in shelter was good, and we met a lady, Elaine, on a boat of similar size to us who was sailing on her own. So we felt a bit whimpish worrying about berthing.

The rain and drizzle came, and with the forcast threatening we stayed just the one night before heading out in thick mist and rain towards Peterhead. Again, the wind was totally on the nose, and although the wind was 15+ knots, we decided to motor again as a 40 mile beat into the rotten weather didn't appeal.

Seven hours later we called harbour control in Peterhead for permission to enter. There are a lot of large oil industry supply vessels here, coming and going 24/7, so the harbourmaster always has to be told if you are entering or leaving.

We contacted my cousins son, Simon, who works in Aberdeen, and he drove up to see us and kindly took us out for a nice meal. The following day we took a bus to Aberdeen (expensive without the OAP pass) where we again met Simon for coffee before visiting the excellent maritime museum, free entry. We were very impressed by all the oil industry ships and information. The day was foggy all day, so the trip around the harbour was missed. We couldn't see the tops of the ships.

We travelled back on the top of the bus, but could see no further than 100 metres.

Waiting for the wind to go to the West, hopefully Sunday, before heading towards Stonehaven and Arbroath. Stonehaven is untennable in South Easterlies, as we shall have to tie up against the harbour wall in the outer harbour. Most of these East coast harbours are shallow for us. People on the East coast tend to sail bilge keelers that can take the ground. Should prove interesting.

Round the corner.

Well, we had a very easy passage across the Pentland Firth from Stromness to Wick on the East coast of Scotland.

I must have got the tides and weather right!

We slipped Stromness at 08.30 planning to cross Scpa Flow and arrive at Cantick Head at low water. We put the sails up as soon as we cleared the tidal effect of Hoy Sound, but we were only making around 3 knots. As my passage plan required 5.5 to arrive at low water at the start of the Firth, we motor saoled in overcast conditions through the Flow. Still very pleasant though. We were glad to be leaving the Orkneys after a very enjoyable six days, despite the not very nice weather. We did attend a very good concert yesterday afternoon by the Aranowich Ensemble, better than the football.

When we rounded the point into the Firth we switched off the engine and sailed for about 45 minutes before the wind died again and the engine was engaged. The Firth was rearkably smooth, with wind and tide together. At one point we touched a speed of 11.9 knots over the ground, despite doing only 5.9 through the water.

Rounding Duncansby head the wind picked up so we killed the engine and had a very enjoyable two hour reach to Wick, where we are now tied up in the new marina in the old fishing quay.

At one time Wick was the largest herring harbour in the world. One day in 18something, nearly 1,000 boats landed 24 million herring, which were all gutted and packed by 3,000 gutters in one day. Must have been a bit smelly.

For the first time for a couple of weeks the sun is now shining and we have just had a delicious meal outside in the cockpit. Not as brave as the French crew on the adjoining boat who bought and cooked three large crabs from the local boats.

Should be heading towards Whitehills tomorrow. We have just had a call from my cousin's son, Simon Hunter, who is working for the oil companies in Aberdeen. We hope we shall be able to meet up in Peterhead or Stonehaven later in the week.

When to move

Well it's blowing pretty hard here at the moment, so I've been trying to work out when to head across the Pentland Firth towards Wick. The main thing to consider is wind and tide. Tides of up to 16 knots have been recorded in the Firth.

We had a meal at the Skerry's bistro last evening on a trip around Orkney mainland, and had a good chat with Hamish, who takes birdwatching and nature trips around the firth in an old lifeboat. He advised:

Never go with an Easterly Wind. (We've had nothing else for two months)
Go into the firth around low tide. conveniently, he told me that low tide Dover is the same as the Firth.
If you find yourself being swept North East, go round the East side of Swona.
He also said a North westerly is due on Monday.

All of which means we are hoping to leave around 08.30 on Monday 25th June if the wind is not too strong. force 5 forecast by some. It might be a bit lighter on Tuesday, but swings back to the East on Wednesday.

Here are a few pictures of Orkney.

Watch this space.

Orkney

Well, here we are in Orkney. The most northerly point of our trip. We have now passed the most southerly, westerly and northerly points of the British mainland. Just Lowestoff Ness in the East to go.

We had four nights in Kinlochbervie. Very interesting watching the fish auction, although rather slow to start with as they had a new boat in and the buyers of the Haddock were inspecting every box. All graded according to size and quality, with the larger ones being more expensive. A box, about 47 kg, went for around £94 for best down to £54 for the smaller fish.Morrisons seemed to buy the smaller cheaper fish. The cod, all enormous, went for over £100 per box, and the most expensive, the monkfish, for over £160. Evidently they used to fetch around £300. From one medium sized boat there must have been 600 boxes of fish. The larger boat which arrived has twice that. But then it needs 50,000 litres of diesel and 15 tons of ice.

And you've guessed. The fish I was holding in the last picture was given to us. It was, we think, a catfish. Gail managed to fillet it in the ice plant, but the skin was incredibly tough. We took off two fillets which would have served ten people. Fried in butter it was delicious. We then curried the rest in Orkney.

we slipped from Kinlochbervie at 03.30 to catch the tide right around Cape Wrath. There was no wind so it would be motoring again, but we were happy to have calm seas as Cape Wrath is notorious for rough seas. We passed the cape at 05.45 and set course, 73 degrees magnetic, for Orkney. After a snack Gail went below for a rest as we decided we must each have a break after such an early start. The weather turned cloudy and drizzly with again, a cold North wind. Quite light but right on the nose again.

Without adjusting the autohelm once, we sailed past the Old Man of Hoy, having rolled out the jib to give us a little bit of help when the wind picked up a little, and into Hoy sound and rolled the jib. I realised we were suddenly not making much over the ground, so the tide must be against us. As we progressed, we increased the revs, and as the wind had  gone behind for a while, unfurled the jib. We were now making 6.8 knots through the water but only 0.5 knots over the ground, with a Northern Ferry rapidly approaching from behind. Luckily we just managed to squeeze past the narrows before he came past and had to make a handbreak turn into Stromness, followed shortly after by ourselves.

We are now safely tied up on a nice pontoon with good facilities. I am about to buy a new cruising guide to the Orkneys as the next leg will be into Scapa Flow, not much tide there, but then into the pentland Firth where tides can run up to 12 knots, so we must get it right.

We are intending spending four or five days here to wait for neap tides. Sadly, because of the Magnus festival, all car hire is booked up, so we will try to hire bikes to explore. Luckily, it's not hilly here.

Pic show Gail gutting the fish, Dawn leaving Loch Inchard, Great Auk

Fish

Had a bit of success at last with the fish. Attatched photo shows me with one we are just about to eat.

Mind you, the fishermen of Kinlochbervie had a bit more success.

1000 miles

We passed the 1000 mile mark on the way to Lochinver.

Having spent four nights there waiting for the weather we left at 11.00 yeaserday and motor sailed to Kinlochbervie. We did try just sailing for half an hour when passing the Old Man of Stoer, but decided help was needed from the good old Yanmar as we were only making around 3 knots.

Kinlochbervie is a small but very sheltered harbour in Loch Inchard, and we are tied up alongside another boat on the small pontoon. Showers and washing in the fish dock shed. Very smelly when going through the shed, and likely to be more so once a large fishing boat comes in this afternoon, when we hope to attend the fish auction and may be buy some fish.

More later with pictures, now I have found we have internet access.

up North

After a few days with no wifi I am now able to update.

We left Malaig around noon on the day I can't remember, and picked up a mooring at Invarie, Knoydart, to go for lunch at the Old Forge, the remotest pub on the British mainland. A 20 mile walk over the mountains, or six miles by boat from Malaig. With me boring Gail with takes of Munros concoured many years ago.

We had calculated the best time to leave for Kyle of Lochalsh, in order to get through the tidal gate of Kyle Rea with a favourable tide. 7.6 knots at springs, and a very narrow chanel, we should leave around 15.30.

Motoring again as the light wind was once again North East. Lots of seals seen in the strong tidal gate.

Heading towards the Kyle we were overtaken by a large RIB who gave us a friendly wave. On arrival at Lochalsh we were dismayed to not the RIB was tied up on the only available berth on the pontoon. What to do. It was now? It was 7 o,clock in the evening. The next stop would be Portree on Skye. We should be able to make it before dark.

We headed beneath the Skye bridge. Funny how it always looks as if the mast will touch. As soon as we passed under the bridge the sea turned awful. Wind increased and wind over tide created what can only be described as horrible conditions. Very short breaking waves around 2m high. We motored into these for what turned out to be about three hours, before entering Portree harbout around 22.00 hours and picking up a mooring at ten minutes past ten. Still another hours daylight left. we were pretty knackered after the unexpected extension of our journey.

The next day was quite nice and we enjoyed a good walk around the peninsular near Portree.

When we woke up the following day a block of flats, sorry, cruise ship, had dropped anchor just outside the harbour. We hoisted sail on the mooring and motor sailed as far as the cruise ship, before rolling out the jib for a cracking sail to Loch Gairloch where we managed, with a little difficulty, due to the force 5 still blowing, to come alongside the pontoon. The 25 mile leg had meant sailing 35 miles as it was a beat the whole way.

Another fine meal out, this time in the Old Inn, where a party of us ate on the Loch Maree trip, and a nice walk into Gairloch the next day to buy meat from the excellent (but expensive) butcher.

We set off the next day with a pleasant sail out of the loch on a gentle reach. As soon as we cleared the land the wind kicked in again force 4 to 5 from.....you,ve guessed it...the North East.As we had good wind we decided it would be best to sail rather than try to motor into another lumpy sea. We had a cracking sail, overtaking a 42 foot ketch which had left half an hour before us, which we tramped past with one reef in and left them miles behind.

We continued beating for a total of 9 hours, finally making it to Lochinver. 40 miles as the crow flies, but 55 miles of beating. We were met o the pontoon by an OLD friend, Dave Mackenzie, who had taken the ferry over from Stornaway specially, and hitched up to see us. We invited hin to do the next couple of legs with us but he has sadly declined. Wise man.

Now sitting in the Lochinver Mission where there is free internet access, before making our way to the liesure centre for a much needed shower.

The weather forecast is force 6 North East today, so we shall wait for a bit less wind before heading towards Kinlochbervie, where we shall hope for a gentle breeze to blow us ,round Cape Wrath towards the Orkneys.

The bottom picture shows the sun setting on Sulvan last night.