We passed the 1000 mile mark on the way to Lochinver.
Having spent four nights there waiting for the weather we left at 11.00 yeaserday and motor sailed to Kinlochbervie. We did try just sailing for half an hour when passing the Old Man of Stoer, but decided help was needed from the good old Yanmar as we were only making around 3 knots.
Kinlochbervie is a small but very sheltered harbour in Loch Inchard, and we are tied up alongside another boat on the small pontoon. Showers and washing in the fish dock shed. Very smelly when going through the shed, and likely to be more so once a large fishing boat comes in this afternoon, when we hope to attend the fish auction and may be buy some fish.
More later with pictures, now I have found we have internet access.
Monday, June 18, 2012
Thursday, June 14, 2012
up North
After a few days with no wifi I am now able to update.
We left Malaig around noon on the day I can't remember, and picked up a mooring at Invarie, Knoydart, to go for lunch at the Old Forge, the remotest pub on the British mainland. A 20 mile walk over the mountains, or six miles by boat from Malaig. With me boring Gail with takes of Munros concoured many years ago.
We had calculated the best time to leave for Kyle of Lochalsh, in order to get through the tidal gate of Kyle Rea with a favourable tide. 7.6 knots at springs, and a very narrow chanel, we should leave around 15.30.
Motoring again as the light wind was once again North East. Lots of seals seen in the strong tidal gate.
Heading towards the Kyle we were overtaken by a large RIB who gave us a friendly wave. On arrival at Lochalsh we were dismayed to not the RIB was tied up on the only available berth on the pontoon. What to do. It was now? It was 7 o,clock in the evening. The next stop would be Portree on Skye. We should be able to make it before dark.
We headed beneath the Skye bridge. Funny how it always looks as if the mast will touch. As soon as we passed under the bridge the sea turned awful. Wind increased and wind over tide created what can only be described as horrible conditions. Very short breaking waves around 2m high. We motored into these for what turned out to be about three hours, before entering Portree harbout around 22.00 hours and picking up a mooring at ten minutes past ten. Still another hours daylight left. we were pretty knackered after the unexpected extension of our journey.
The next day was quite nice and we enjoyed a good walk around the peninsular near Portree.
When we woke up the following day a block of flats, sorry, cruise ship, had dropped anchor just outside the harbour. We hoisted sail on the mooring and motor sailed as far as the cruise ship, before rolling out the jib for a cracking sail to Loch Gairloch where we managed, with a little difficulty, due to the force 5 still blowing, to come alongside the pontoon. The 25 mile leg had meant sailing 35 miles as it was a beat the whole way.
Another fine meal out, this time in the Old Inn, where a party of us ate on the Loch Maree trip, and a nice walk into Gairloch the next day to buy meat from the excellent (but expensive) butcher.
We set off the next day with a pleasant sail out of the loch on a gentle reach. As soon as we cleared the land the wind kicked in again force 4 to 5 from.....you,ve guessed it...the North East.As we had good wind we decided it would be best to sail rather than try to motor into another lumpy sea. We had a cracking sail, overtaking a 42 foot ketch which had left half an hour before us, which we tramped past with one reef in and left them miles behind.
We continued beating for a total of 9 hours, finally making it to Lochinver. 40 miles as the crow flies, but 55 miles of beating. We were met o the pontoon by an OLD friend, Dave Mackenzie, who had taken the ferry over from Stornaway specially, and hitched up to see us. We invited hin to do the next couple of legs with us but he has sadly declined. Wise man.
Now sitting in the Lochinver Mission where there is free internet access, before making our way to the liesure centre for a much needed shower.
The weather forecast is force 6 North East today, so we shall wait for a bit less wind before heading towards Kinlochbervie, where we shall hope for a gentle breeze to blow us ,round Cape Wrath towards the Orkneys.
The bottom picture shows the sun setting on Sulvan last night.
We left Malaig around noon on the day I can't remember, and picked up a mooring at Invarie, Knoydart, to go for lunch at the Old Forge, the remotest pub on the British mainland. A 20 mile walk over the mountains, or six miles by boat from Malaig. With me boring Gail with takes of Munros concoured many years ago.
We had calculated the best time to leave for Kyle of Lochalsh, in order to get through the tidal gate of Kyle Rea with a favourable tide. 7.6 knots at springs, and a very narrow chanel, we should leave around 15.30.
Motoring again as the light wind was once again North East. Lots of seals seen in the strong tidal gate.
Heading towards the Kyle we were overtaken by a large RIB who gave us a friendly wave. On arrival at Lochalsh we were dismayed to not the RIB was tied up on the only available berth on the pontoon. What to do. It was now? It was 7 o,clock in the evening. The next stop would be Portree on Skye. We should be able to make it before dark.
We headed beneath the Skye bridge. Funny how it always looks as if the mast will touch. As soon as we passed under the bridge the sea turned awful. Wind increased and wind over tide created what can only be described as horrible conditions. Very short breaking waves around 2m high. We motored into these for what turned out to be about three hours, before entering Portree harbout around 22.00 hours and picking up a mooring at ten minutes past ten. Still another hours daylight left. we were pretty knackered after the unexpected extension of our journey.
The next day was quite nice and we enjoyed a good walk around the peninsular near Portree.
When we woke up the following day a block of flats, sorry, cruise ship, had dropped anchor just outside the harbour. We hoisted sail on the mooring and motor sailed as far as the cruise ship, before rolling out the jib for a cracking sail to Loch Gairloch where we managed, with a little difficulty, due to the force 5 still blowing, to come alongside the pontoon. The 25 mile leg had meant sailing 35 miles as it was a beat the whole way.
Another fine meal out, this time in the Old Inn, where a party of us ate on the Loch Maree trip, and a nice walk into Gairloch the next day to buy meat from the excellent (but expensive) butcher.
We set off the next day with a pleasant sail out of the loch on a gentle reach. As soon as we cleared the land the wind kicked in again force 4 to 5 from.....you,ve guessed it...the North East.As we had good wind we decided it would be best to sail rather than try to motor into another lumpy sea. We had a cracking sail, overtaking a 42 foot ketch which had left half an hour before us, which we tramped past with one reef in and left them miles behind.
We continued beating for a total of 9 hours, finally making it to Lochinver. 40 miles as the crow flies, but 55 miles of beating. We were met o the pontoon by an OLD friend, Dave Mackenzie, who had taken the ferry over from Stornaway specially, and hitched up to see us. We invited hin to do the next couple of legs with us but he has sadly declined. Wise man.
Now sitting in the Lochinver Mission where there is free internet access, before making our way to the liesure centre for a much needed shower.
The bottom picture shows the sun setting on Sulvan last night.
Friday, June 8, 2012
a few pics
Fort Bill
Well here we are sitting in Nevis Sports cafe in Fort William. Just like the old Munro days.
We've not sailed here, but come on the train from Malaig, over the Glenfinan (Harry Potter) viaduct.
We left Tobamory a couple of days ago, and as usual, put up the sails and what wind there was died within 40 minutes. Engine on. As we neared The Point of Ardnamurchan, the most westerly point on the British mainland, a bit of wind kicked in, so up went the sails as I felt we should try to sail around this milestone, as we had sailed around the most southerly, the Lizard point.
45 minutes of gentle sailing before turning once again straight into the wind, now no more than force 2. As beating into this would have had us arriving in the small hours, we again motored. We had a bit of rain as we approached Malaig, and much excitement with our "man overboard" drill as I was fixing the fenders and my precious Tilly hat blew off. Quick work by Gail on the helm swung the boat around. By the time I'd got the boat hook she'd managed to run over the hat (good job it was only a hat) but it reappeared to our stern, where Gail backed up and I was able to catch it with the boat hook. The only thing I have caught all trip.
Fortuneately Malaig now has a nice new marina with good pontoons, and as the wind was forecast to blow, we thought we would be better off hear than on a mooring or anchor.
The wind might drop a bit tomorrow, so we shall see if we can carry on heading North, again probably motoring into a Northerly. Who would have predicted North East winds the whole way from Cork to the North of Scotland?
We've not sailed here, but come on the train from Malaig, over the Glenfinan (Harry Potter) viaduct.
We left Tobamory a couple of days ago, and as usual, put up the sails and what wind there was died within 40 minutes. Engine on. As we neared The Point of Ardnamurchan, the most westerly point on the British mainland, a bit of wind kicked in, so up went the sails as I felt we should try to sail around this milestone, as we had sailed around the most southerly, the Lizard point.
45 minutes of gentle sailing before turning once again straight into the wind, now no more than force 2. As beating into this would have had us arriving in the small hours, we again motored. We had a bit of rain as we approached Malaig, and much excitement with our "man overboard" drill as I was fixing the fenders and my precious Tilly hat blew off. Quick work by Gail on the helm swung the boat around. By the time I'd got the boat hook she'd managed to run over the hat (good job it was only a hat) but it reappeared to our stern, where Gail backed up and I was able to catch it with the boat hook. The only thing I have caught all trip.
Fortuneately Malaig now has a nice new marina with good pontoons, and as the wind was forecast to blow, we thought we would be better off hear than on a mooring or anchor.
The wind might drop a bit tomorrow, so we shall see if we can carry on heading North, again probably motoring into a Northerly. Who would have predicted North East winds the whole way from Cork to the North of Scotland?
Wednesday, June 6, 2012
What's the story in Balamory
Well, here we are in Balamory, sorry, Tobamory. Too much watching CBeebies with the grandchildren.
Yet again, the sea was flat and the wind didn't blow. And what there was, came from the North and was again on the nose. Tried sailing a while, putting up the cruising chute and bearing off, but still only able to make 2 knots, so once again motored.
Had a good three hour walk in the morning. Gail was particularly impressed by the two miles of "easy ground" I took her over. Tussocky bog.
Slipped from Oban marina around 13.00 and had a very pleasant cruise up to Tobermory on Mull. All you lot thinking Les has got over his seasickness, remember it's been flat calm for the last month. We shall no doubt pay later when we get into The Minch.
Just agreed to hire a car to tour Mull. It has been condiderably smartened up since I was last here about six years ago (the day they found Sadam....whenever that was). Lots of E.C. money and a smart new marina. Not quite finished, but very nice.
I think we have been having better weather than down south. First rain since Caladh harbour last night, but after we had retired. Generally sunny in the day. A bit cloudy today.
We shall be heading towards Arisaig, Malaig and then through the inner sound towards Kyle of Lochalsh and up towards Ullapool. So anyone thinking of visiting Scotland, let us know.
Picture upload won,t work until I have more broadband width.
Yet again, the sea was flat and the wind didn't blow. And what there was, came from the North and was again on the nose. Tried sailing a while, putting up the cruising chute and bearing off, but still only able to make 2 knots, so once again motored.
Had a good three hour walk in the morning. Gail was particularly impressed by the two miles of "easy ground" I took her over. Tussocky bog.
Slipped from Oban marina around 13.00 and had a very pleasant cruise up to Tobermory on Mull. All you lot thinking Les has got over his seasickness, remember it's been flat calm for the last month. We shall no doubt pay later when we get into The Minch.
Just agreed to hire a car to tour Mull. It has been condiderably smartened up since I was last here about six years ago (the day they found Sadam....whenever that was). Lots of E.C. money and a smart new marina. Not quite finished, but very nice.
I think we have been having better weather than down south. First rain since Caladh harbour last night, but after we had retired. Generally sunny in the day. A bit cloudy today.
We shall be heading towards Arisaig, Malaig and then through the inner sound towards Kyle of Lochalsh and up towards Ullapool. So anyone thinking of visiting Scotland, let us know.
Sunday, June 3, 2012
Oban
After an enjoyable but surprisingly busy traverse of the Crinan canal, we had an easy trip through Dorus Mor up to Oban. The wind was again very much on the nose, so chose to motor. With the tide under us we had a GPS speed of 11 knots at one point.
Now sitting in a cafe on the sea front typing this.
Here are one ot two picturs, one showing the last of the old puffers....Vic. Although I know another old puffer called Vic.
Might stay a couple of nights here before heading towards Tobamory, better known to you grandparents who watch cbeebies as Balamory.
Now sitting in a cafe on the sea front typing this.
Here are one ot two picturs, one showing the last of the old puffers....Vic. Although I know another old puffer called Vic.
Saturday, June 2, 2012
The joys of anchoring
We left Largs around 14.15 after shopping and lunch. Leaving the marina there was not a breath, but within 200 metres of the entrance we had hoisted sail and were cracking along at 5/6 knots towards the Kyles of Bute. The intention was to spend a night at a beautiful small anchorage called Caladh harbour. The wind soon dropped as we headed into the East Kyle, and we motored up through the Burnt Isles, a very narrow passage. I remembered to take off the shackle I had put on to stop the anchor jumping.
We negotiated the narrow entrance to Caladh, rocks 20 metres away on both sides, to find ourselves in a "harbour" the size of a duck pond. Don't panic. Then I remembered, I'd not got the anchor windlass control. Quick dash down the companionway to grab it. Gail takes the helm and I rush forward. Remember, we only have about 30 metres to move in any direction. Go forward, remembering I'd greased the control with vasaline to protect it, can't undo the cap due to slipping on vasaline.companionway sprint record broken. 3.7 seconds..over the deck, down below, grab mole grip from toolbox, back up, up to anchor, get cap off and screw on controler. Does'nt work, remember switch. Companionway dash record broken. Now 2.9 seconds. Still doesn't work. Try another switch. Still not working. Only one answer, exit harbour to go into main lock for sea room. Met another boat in 30 metre wide chanel. Get to loch, anchor works first time. Go back into Caladh. Other boat already anchored in prime spot. Drop our hook. Gail says we are may be a bit close to where the water sholes. Up anchor. Move 15 metres. Drop 25 metres of chain. Relax. Remember we've not put anchor snubber on. Fix this. Relax again. Invaded by 20billion midge. Go below and close everything.
A lovely peacefull anchorage?
Next day, we motored towards the Crinan canal, saw a dolphin which played with us and Gail took a good picture.
Can't do pics today as no wifi.
We've now gone through 13 locks on the Crinan but have decided not to exit until tomorrow to catch the right tide to head north again towards Oban. The canal is very interesting with quite large locks which were fairly hard work going up, but easier dropping. Gail was brilliant at driving the boat in between the intimidating stone walls of the locks, and we seemed to have worked out a pretty good system with the warps. Me up front, and Gail with the rear warp through the spinnacker block and on to a winch. All fenders were used and needed. Thank goodness these days they give assisted passage to two man boats, as two are needed at all times on the baot, and one at least on land working the locks. Beautiful scenary and very peaceful. Luckily not too many wee beasties (midge).
More details and pics when we have wifi.
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